Battle of the PDOs: Cérons vs Entre-Deux-Mers
Bordeaux Magazine UK
October 11, 2024

Battle of the PDOs: Cérons vs Entre-Deux-Mers

A new and promising encounter in the battle of Bordeaux appellations! A tight match is expected with two immensely talented PDOs. On the one hand, Lorie, a winemaker in Clos Bourgelat, fiercely defends the colours of the Cérons PDO. On the other hand, Pauline, a winegrower at Château Haut-Rian, rolls up her sleeves for the Entre-Deux-Mers PDO. So raise your glass and let the battle begin!

A standoff with vineyards shaped by waterways

This delicious match will kick off 40 kilometres south of Bordeaux across the three communes of Cérons, Illats and Podensac. Here lies the tiny Cérons appellation. Its 23 hectares of vines, which run alongside thousand-year-old forests, are bordered by the Garonne and Ciron Rivers. You have surely guessed it already: the PDO takes its name from the latter. It plays a decisive role in the production of local wines since the humidity fosters the development of noble rot on the grapes. Known as Botrytis cinerea, this precious fungus absorbs water from the berries, thus concentrating their sugar, and leading to the production of delicious cuvées! 

For the next stage in our battle, we need to cross the Garonne. The Entre-Deux-Mers PDO is surrounded by this river to the south and by the Dordogne to the north (it resembles a large island and is even accessible from Bordeaux via the Pont de Pierre bridge). Needless to say, these “two seas” have forged the identity of the 1,783-hectare appellation, which stretches across 133 communes. The ocean is not far either, so much so that its energy can also be felt on these lands which boast a unique character: a real patchwork combining vines, of course, as well as prairies, forests, and rivers, surrounded by hills as far as the eye can see!

Two teams of winegrowers who never shy away from a challenge…

With its human-sized vineyards, the Cérons PDO follows the rhythm of families of craftsmen with big personalities. Their no.1 motto in the vineyards? Perseverance! You need to be tenacious to get the very best out of noble rot. Because while nature helps this miracle to unfold, human intervention is required to harvest the botrytised grapes in successive passes. Winemaking is carried out using traditional methods. To sum up, Cérons is a realm of little-known wines, which have been gradually fine-tuned over time: it is not surprising that Prince Albert of Monaco seized the opportunity to visit when he was invited to be inducted by the Confrérie des Petits Pois de Cérons – a brotherhood celebrating peas in 2023! 

As for the Entre-Deux-Mers, the region is home to 272 dynamic winegrowers. Made up of 50% independent estates and 50% cooperative members, all of them are proud to work on the land, just like their forefathers. As firmly rooted in the soil as their vines, they love to nurture both their differences and their team spirit, true to their island-like character! Their know-how, on the other hand, is showcased through different types of blending, winemaking techniques and ageing methods. And then, protecting the environment becomes second nature: 95% of their area under vine is committed to agro-environmental strategies, whether High Environmental Value (HEV) or Organic Agriculture (AB) certification.

Sweet or dry, these wines always make the grade!

The Cérons appellation produces easy-to-drink, surprising and refreshing sweet white wines! The secret of these fabulous golden nectars lies in two white grape varieties: Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc. Deeply rooted in terrace soils composed of gravel and sand, they promise cuvées with excellent ageing potential. Finally, the full-bodied character of these sweet whites offers many tasting possibilities to curious wine lovers: above all during aperitifs, but also meals and summer cocktails… 

Entre-Deux-Mers PDO wines are full of surprises, too! They truly reflect the natural elements which nurture them: tasting them is like being submerged by a wave of freshness… They are primarily dry and white, with 1,519 hectares of Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, Muscadelle and Sauvignon Gris. Both lively and fruity, full-bodied and aromatic, they have many facets… but that’s not all! Since 2023, the appellation also includes red cuvées, with 264 hectares of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Carménère. A novelty which is not that new: beyond the PDO area, the Entre-Deux-Mers region is home to six red grapevines for every white grapevine!

So, who is the winner? The Cérons or Entre-Deux-Mers appellation? It isn’t easy to choose between these two high-level participants… In the end, it’s not the result that matters but the joy of a great game! To prolong it even further, why not take a look at the Bordeaux rosé vs Crémant de Bordeaux battle? Don’t forget to follow the Bordeaux Crew on our social media pages, where many great discoveries await!

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