New battle: a fresh and promising clash in the Bordeaux appellation arena
A new showdown is about to unfold in the Bordeaux appellation arena—and this one promises to be a close‑fought contest between two highly talented AOCs.
On one side, Lorie, winegrower at Clos Bourgelat, proudly flies the flag for Cérons AOC. On the other, Pauline, winemaker at Château Haut‑Rian, is more than ready to give it her all for Entre‑deux‑Mers AOC.
Glasses at the ready—it’s time for kick‑off.
A head‑to‑head shaped by water‑kissed vineyards
This flavour‑packed match kicks off around 40 kilometres south of Bordeaux, across the three communes of Cérons, Illats and Podensac. Here lies the tiny Cérons appellation, home to just 23 hectares of vines, nestled alongside ancient forests and bordered by both the Garonne and the Ciron rivers. As you may have guessed, the latter directly inspired the appellation’s name—and plays a decisive role in shaping its wines. The humidity it generates encourages the development of noble rot on the grapes. Known as Botrytis cinerea, this precious fungus draws water from the berries, concentrating their sugars and giving rise to beautifully rich, luscious wines.
To continue our battle, it’s time to cross the Garonne. Entre‑deux‑Mers PDO is framed by this river to the south and the Dordogne to the north—its territory, with the feel of a vast island, is even accessible from Bordeaux via the historic Pont de Pierre. These two “seas” have shaped the identity of an appellation covering 1,783 hectares and stretching across 133 communes. The Atlantic Ocean is not far either, and its influence can be felt across these lands with their distinctive temperament: a true patchwork of vineyards, of course, but also meadows, forests and waterways, all unfolding over gently rolling hills as far as the eye can see.
Two teams of winemakers who never shy away from hard work…
With its small, close‑knit vineyard, the Cérons AOC moves to the rhythm of artisan families with strong personalities. Their guiding principle in the vines? Perseverance. Extracting the very best from noble rot demands patience and tenacity. Nature may spark the miracle, but human skill is essential: grapes are harvested through successive tries, hand‑selecting only those berries perfectly touched by Botrytis cinerea. Winemaking follows time‑honoured, traditional methods. In short, Cérons is a stronghold of rare, confidential wines, patiently and precisely crafted. Little wonder, then, that Prince Albert of Monaco paid a special visit in 2023 to be inducted by the Confrérie des Petits Pois de Cérons.
Over in Entre‑deux‑Mers, the picture is painted by 272 dynamic women and men winegrowers. Half independent, half cooperative members, all proudly identify as farmers—often across several generations. As deeply rooted as their vines, they balance a strong sense of individuality with a true team spirit: a genuine island mindset. Their expertise thrives on a wide range of blending approaches, technical pathways and ageing choices. And caring for nature here is second nature: 95% of vineyard land is covered by agri‑environmental measures, whether through High Environmental Value (HVE) certification or organic farming.
Whether sweet or dry, wines that always rise to the occasion
With Cérons, the spotlight falls on approachable yet surprising sweet white wines, defined by freshness and finesse. Behind these luscious nectars lie two key grape varieties: Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc. Deeply rooted in terraced soils of gravel and sand, they give rise to wines with genuine ageing potential. Their voluptuous, layered profiles open the door to many tasting moments: as an apéritif first and foremost, alongside a meal, or even in cocktails when the warmer months return.
The wines of Entre-deux-Mers are no less full of surprises. Shaped by the natural elements that surround them, they bear a clear signature: tasting them is like being swept up in a wave of freshness. Traditionally, the appellation is predominantly dry white, with 1,519 hectares planted to Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, Muscadelle and Sauvignon Gris. Sometimes crisp and fruit-driven, sometimes generous and highly aromatic, these wines refuse to be defined by a single style. But that’s not the whole story. Since 2023, the appellation has also embraced red wines, with 264 hectares of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Carménère. A novelty that isn’t entirely new: beyond the AOC boundaries, the Entre-deux-Mers region has long been home to six vines of red grapes for every one of white.
So, Cérons or Entre-deux-Mers?
Not an easy call between these two top‑flight contenders… In the end, though, what really matters isn’t the scoreline, but the beauty of the match itself. And to keep the beauty flowing, why not take a look at our Bordeaux Rosé vs Crémant de Bordeaux battle? Another option: join the Bordeaux Crew on our social channels, where plenty of inspiring—and delicious—discoveries await.