Le Wine Buff Rob on The Key to Bordeaux

FILED UNDER: Appellations, Bordeaux Journeys, Grapes, Know Your Bordeaux, Wine 101


By Rob Moshein @AustinWineGuy

Le Wine Buff Rob on The Key to Bordeaux

“Bordeaux. What grape is that?” This is a question we get asked many times when we taste wine with consumers. Most wine drinkers in the US who favor California wines are driven by the single varietal. “I only drink Cabernet” or “I prefer Pinot Noir” is something we hear often as well. More people should “drink outside the box” to discover why the blended wines of Bordeaux provide a unique, distinctive and enjoyable wine experience. The French, with their history of wine going back centuries, long ago learned the secret that the place grapes are grown and the people who make it are much more important than the grape varietals used.

When California started making more “serious” wine in the early 1980s, most vineyards had planted only one variety of grapes. So, for example, Stag’s Leap made only Cabernet Sauvignon because that was all they grew. Consumers in the US quickly became accustomed to that style of just one varietal, and as demand grew there was no real incentive for wineries to consider blending on a large scale. Blending wines adds cost to the final bottle. Blending also is an art form unto itself, which takes years to perfect, and many California wine makers simply had little experience with it for the first years.

The obvious question is “Why blend?”

Blended wines are often more elegant, balanced and distinctive. Blending makes Bordeaux special. So special, in fact, that the California wine industry today now makes “Meritage”, blended, wines. Pronounced “Merit-idge” the name is derived from “The Merit of the Bordeaux Heritage”, and the wines are similar blends as in Bordeaux, from California wine.

There are, in fact, a variety of reasons why, at least in Bordeaux, it made sense over the centuries to blend wine and, as a result, produce such unique and distinct wines which are considered a cornerstone of quality.


Sémillon grapes

One primary reason is the taste of the wine. Each varietal has its own distinct taste. Sauvignon Blanc is light, fruity and acidic. Sémillon has more body, an herbal, grassy flavor and shows minerality. Each, alone, is pleasant enough. Imagine having some friends over for a dinner party. One friend is shy, but very funny. Another is very smart and outgoing. Each is pleasant enough one on one. However, when you invite the two together, each brings something to the party and makes for a better time. The same applies in the wine glass. Take Chateau Bonnet Blanc for example. By blending some Semillon into the Sauvignon Blanc, the wine becomes more complex, rounder, more elegant and shows a pretty combination of both acidity and minerality.

Another equally important reason why Bordeaux blends wine is due to the “terroir” or environment of each unique region of Bordeaux. Some grape varietals grow better in certain conditions than others. So, for example, on the Right Bank, in St. Émilion, closest to the town of Saint Emilion is an area of deep limestone on fairly steep slopes. Merlot grows best in this environment, and Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon will also grow fairly well but not as well as the Merlot. Thus, St. Emilion wines are a blend of mostly Merlot and a little Cabernet. The Cabs add some body and structure to the supple and elegant but lighter Merlot. This is well expressed in the 80% Merlot 20% Cabernet Sauvignon blend of Les Parcelles de Stéphane Derenoncourt 2010. The wine shows a pretty cherry tone and supple elegant body from the Merlot, but has a nice acidity and dark tannin note from the Cabernet.


Cabernet Sauvignon grapes

On the Left Bank, in Haut-Médoc, they have a very different geography. They have a gravelly sandy soil, good for Cabernet Sauvignon, with pockets of muddy clay, which Merlot prefers. So, in one vineyard you will find Cab planted in some parts, with Merlot in others. Naturally, you will find a blend of the two from the same vineyard. This makes sense, because again, the heavier, more full bodied Cab will be balanced and made more elegant by the lighter and softer Merlot. The two combined make for a better wine than leaving each separate. A fine example is Château d’Arcins 2009 Haut-Medoc. A rich earthy black cherry fruit and solid tannin structure are softened and made more elegant by the lighter Merlot.

Take that step, explore the heritage of wine that is Bordeaux. Experience for yourself the supple, elegant, complex and ultimately richly rewarding expression created by the art and craft of blending different wines together, to achieve something in your glass that is far greater than the sum of its parts. Experience Bordeaux.

A Magical Trip to Bordeaux, A Better Trip to the Wine Counter

FILED UNDER: Appellations, Bordeaux Journeys, Wine 101



By Mindy Joyce, @WineryCritic

My New Year’s Resolution was simple: go to the next level of Bordeaux, turning a casual relationship into something more meaningful. When it came to ordering or visiting the Bordeaux section of my wine store, I understood Bordeaux, but I didn’t really know it. Browsing this section has always been a standard “go to” for steak nights, pizza dinners, or just a general stock up, but with so many choices I never really felt like I really knew enough about what I was buying. For years these names of villages didn’t mean that much to me – that is, until about three weeks ago.

I vowed to book a trip to get my head around this wine once and for all. With a few connections I managed to pull together quite an impressive itinerary of appointments, from large to small producers. I dedicated four days and hit the main regions: Pessac-Léognan, the Médoc, Saint-Émilion, Pomerol and Sauternes. After all, with 8,000 châteaux in this one region you have to plan ahead and know where you want to go.

Bordeaux is so easy to get to from Paris on the TGV. If you haven’t tried the high-speed trains in France yet, I can promise you they are better than flying. I arrived at Gare de Bordeaux Saint-Jean in three hours, picked up a car and set off on my journey.

In my head I’d imagined I’d find plenty of elaborate châteaux, perhaps some pretentiousness, and even with three years of wine classes behind me, winery owners rolling their eyes at an amateur taster. What I found was quite the opposite. Everyone I met was so welcoming and extremely knowledgeable about their wines and the region. Here they are passionate about their terroir and they love to tell you about it. (You cannot go to a château without learning about the terroir, and how it differs every three feet.) Here, you really are in wine country. No pretentiousness – just real people with great stories.

Patrice Pages, owner at Château Fourcas-Dupré in Listrac-Médoc walked me around the winery stressing the importance of the terroir, explaining how even the barrels have a terroir. “Terroir” is a French term that normally refers to the soil types, climate, typography – unique characteristics of a specific area. I had never even thought about barrels having terroir before. But, yes, I can see this now. “We want to make elegant wines with soft tannins. We are not looking to make ‘body building’ wines” he joked with all seriousness. I really adore meeting owners and chatting with small family producers. This is when you can really realize the passion and dedication that goes into making these wines. Here wine is not only in their blood – it’s everything to them. Château Fourcas-Dupré has 43 hectares of vines.

By contrast, Château Pontet-Canet in Pauillac is much larger. It has 120 hectares of vines and five horses that they use to plow and maintain the vineyard. Here they make wines that even Robert Parker can’t fault. Both the 2009 and 2010 vintages received 100-pt scores. But, what is really impressive is that Pontet-Canet is both a certified biodynamic and organic vineyard. What it takes in the vineyard and in the winery (and the expense of doing so) to make these wines is absolutely fascinating. I smile every time I see this wine on the shelves at wine stores. I can now see why it is worth every penny of the $70 or more you’ll see these listed for, depending on the vintage.

Château la Dauphine in Fronsac also topped my list of favorites. Here you’ll find a blend of modern sophistication and centuries of history. Just standing in front of the château itself on a quiet misty morning in February, I couldn’t help but think what it must have been like to arrive by horse and coach as its first owner, wife of Dauphin Louis Ferdinand de France (son of Louis XV) Marie-Josèphe de Saxe did in the 1750s. This is a mystical place that by contrast, has a sparkly, modern winery with a young, sophisticated feel. I had such a great time learning about the winery with my host Marion that I got carried away at the boutique buying carafes and wine accessories – but I have such great memories every time I use them.

Lunches and dinners also offered opportunities for memorable experiences. When no tourists are in sight, the restaurants in these towns are packed full of winemakers, winery staff and owners. The food here is exceptional and if you’re a foodie, places like Café Lavinal in Pauillac, La Table du Lavoir at Les Sources de Caudalie in Pessac-Léognan and L’Auberge des Vignes in Sauternes should be at the top of your list. If you can understand a little French you can amuse yourself by listening to their conversations like I did. If your French is not so good, you don’t need to worry either. Everyone I met at the châteaux and restaurants spoke perfect English. Make sure you get reservations at the restaurants as they are small places and only serve a certain number of guests.

I’d go back to Saint-Émilion in a heartbeat, as it’s the most impressive town you’ll visit in the Bordeaux region. This is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and home to 250 kilometers of limestone caves and 52 wine stores. Having visited many medieval hill towns in Europe I can tell you that this is a very special place. The vineyards are jarringly old and rustic, the caves are impressive and the wines are incredible.

Sauternes was another fascinating place. I have to admit I didn’t know a lot about the sweet wines of Bordeaux, but in less than 45 minutes drive from the city you can visit the likes of Château d’Yquem and neighboring vineyards of Château Guiraud and Château Suiduiraut. If you really want to impress your friends, I think showing off your Sauternes knowledge is an excellent idea.

The city of Bordeaux was another surprise. This is not a sleepy town. Amongst all the historic buildings, I found a young, hip vibe and an abundance of wine bars and great restaurants. I found it was a great place to base myself, and from here you really are only 30 minutes away from any of the wine villages. I loved Max Bordeaux, a wine bar where you can taste many of the region’s top wines by the glass and also attend a class.

My trip to Bordeaux was not only a magical escape to the home of wine, but a fantastic investment that pays off every time I look at a wine list or visit a wine store. Not only do I know what I like based on the village – but it brings back so many great memories for me every time I see these châteaux and villages mentioned. I only really scratched the surface in four days but it was enough to dramatically improve my wine buying knowledge, and to provide me with a lifetime of inspiration.

Photo courtesy: Mindy Joyce, @WineryCritic

Top 5 Mardi Gras Wine Spots for Bordeaux

FILED UNDER: Art of Living, Bordeaux Journeys, Buying & Choosing Wine, Holidays, Know Your Bordeaux

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[Mardi Gras wine charms on Etsy]

Spending the week in NOLA for Mardi Gras? We picked our favorite spots to have a glass of wine, all serving Bordeaux under $40:

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Bayona

Bordeaux under $40:

· 2002 Château Cambon la Pelouse, Haut-Médoc, Cru Bourgeois, Bordeaux, France, $40
· 2009 Château Saint-Thibeaud, Bordeaux Blanc Sec, $30
· 2011 Château Les Tuileries, Entre-Deux-Mers, Grand Vin de Bordeaux, $27
· 2008 Château Greysac, Médoc, $35
· 2005 Château Laribotte, Sauternes, France, $39

Location: 430 Dauphine Street [map]

Foursquare tip:

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Dick & Jenny’s

Bordeaux under $40:

· 2010 Château de Seguin, $35
· 2005 Château Sainte Colombe, Côtes De Castillon, $36

Location: 4501 Tchoupitoulas Street [map]

Foursquare tip:

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Coquette

Bordeaux under $40: 2010 Château de Mirambeau Bordeaux Blanc, $36

Location: 2800 Magazine Street [map]

Foursquare tip:

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La Petite Grocery

Bordeaux under $40: 2008 Château du Seuil Bordeaux Blanc, $32

Location: 4238 Magazine Street [map]

Foursquare tip:

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Mondo

Bordeaux under $40:

· 2009 Château Respide-Medeville, $40
· 2008 Château Greysac, Haut Médoc, $35

Location: 900 Harrison Avenue [map]

Foursquare tip:

Did we miss your favorite NOLA spot? Tell us in the comments!

Meet Sam Klingberg – Our Latest Wine Buff [INTERVIEW]

FILED UNDER: Bordeaux Journeys, Know Your Bordeaux

Say hello to the newest member of the Bordeaux Wine Buff team – Sam Klingberg – also known as the Broke Wino. Sam’s site was initially founded as a website devoted to finding great deals on wine in Chicago, but soon morphed into a mission of making wine interesting and accessible to the average 20-something consumer. We sit down with the Chicagoan to learn more about his interests in wine and what he would be doing if he wasn’t working in the wine industry.

When and how did you fall in love with wine?
When I was in high school I was really interested in pretending to be from anywhere but where I was actually from. I read a lot about other countries, and fell in love with France particularly. I read a copy Kevin Zraly’s Window’s on the World when I was around 16, I guess to get all into that holy trinity of bread, wine, and cheese thing. It just snowballed from there.

What do you enjoy about your job?
Anytime you get to match up what you absolutely love doing in life with a way to earn a paycheck, it’s golden.

Tell us about a memorable wine tasting you’ve attended.
I’ve been lucky to go to some incredible tastings, but I gotta be honest, I find those more like a lab experience than a truly enjoyable memory. I’m down for that random night when we opened a ’95 Ducru Beaucaillou and wished we had waited another 15 years.

How many wine bottles do you currently have in your home?
Unfortunately, I don’t have great storage in my place. But I keep about 20 or so wines.

What are your wine tasting tips?
Adventure.

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And now for your favorites…
Favorite Bordeaux wine from Today’s Bordeaux judging?

Chateau Trois Moulins, a lot of those ’08 basic Bordeaux wines are sipping in a sweet spot right now.

Favorite wine bar in Chicago?
Vera over on Lake and Green. Liz Menendez has crafted a globally minded, but Spanish-centric wine list that is almost as fun to peruse as it is to order from. She also offers probably the most sherries by the glass of any place in Chicago.

Favorite wine shop in Chicago?
Perman Wine over on Madison, super eclectic, smart design, and Craig is stellar. Plus, Harold’s Chicken Shack is next door, Champagne up that joint.

Favorite restaurant & dish in Chicago?
There’s so much to choose from, but right now I’m diggin Owen & Engine, a cool British Gastropub in Bucktown. They make some sick duck meatballs in a curry sauce. It’s a pain to get to there, but totally worth it.

Forget about wine, what else do you like to drink? Do you enjoy beer?
I’m really big into learning about distillation practices right now, and you gotta make beer to make whiskey, right? So, yeah, I drink it all. Except for cake shots, and dragon berry rum.

If you weren’t working in wine, what would you be doing?
Probably living in a van down by the river.

Outside of the wine world, what are some of your interests?
Everything, really. I’m one of those guys who reads every blog, jumps down the reddit hole at least once a day. But I cook a lot, and love working on my tournée cuts and such.

I’ve read somewhere you like notebooks…any recommendations?!
Right now I use a classic Mead composition college ruled. I used to use Moleskine to look cool, but, whatever. I also use Evernote a lot for electronic stuff.

Wanna know more about Sam? What is he writing in his many notebooks? Want cooking and wine pairing tips? Tweet at the Broke Wino or ask your question in the comments section below.

Who are you having a glass with this weekend? How about in Bordeaux? [CONTEST]

FILED UNDER: Bordeaux Journeys

Who are you having a glass with this weekend? How about in Bordeaux? Right now we’ve got a sweet Bordeaux trip sweepstakes. You and your lucky guest. No purchase necessary. All you have to do is sign up and be 21 and over. Then choose a date next year between May and September, and dream about sipping a glass of rosé in Pessac Léognan…or take a bike ride tour through the Pomerol vineyards and estates…or spend the day exploring the historic village of St. Emilion.

Need more inspiration? Visit our Flickr page for more photos of Bordeaux escapes…and then register to win the trip here! Good luck!

ENTER TO WIN »

NO PURCHASE NECESSARY. Ends 12/31/2012 at 11:59 p.m. ET. Open only to legal U.S. residents of the 48 Contiguous United States and the District of Columbia 21 and older. Winner must travel between 5/1/2013 and 9/30/2013. See Official Rules for additional eligibility restrictions, full details & prize limitations. Sponsored by Bordeaux Wine Council (CIVB – Conseil Interprofessionel du vin de Bordeaux), 1, cours du XXX Juillet, 33075 Bordeaux Cedex FRANCE. Void in CA, MI and other states where prohibited or restricted by law.